Beginner’s Guide to Straight Razors

Straight razors are a pretty straightforward and simple tool, but they are also pretty intimidating to men that don’t know anything about them. They shouldn’t be though. Let us preface this article with the following statement: not all men should use straight razors, but we don’t want the reason to be because they are intimidated about buying or learning how to use them.

Our goal in this article is simple: we want to teach you all about the basics of straight razors. You won’t be an expert by the end of this article, but we are confident that you will have enough information to decide if a straight razor is something you might want to buy and if so, we will give you some tips on what you should look for in your first purchase.

Straight razors are making a comeback

The primary way men shave has continually evolved over the last 130+ years. We have gone from straight razors to safety razors to disposable razors to cartridge razors and electric razors. Guess what though? Many men are bringing it back full circle to straight razors and safety razors.

Straight razors, also known as open razors or cut-throat razors, were pretty much the only way guys shaved until the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Unfortunately though, using one is a skill that must be learned and in the 1800’s and early 1900’s, not all men had someone around to teach them. After all, men at the time didn’t have the luxury of being able to go to youtube and watch a few “how to use a straight razor” videos. So instead of being able to shave themselves at home, most men had to frequent the local barber if they wanted a shave.

King Camp Gillette changed everything though in 1904 when he invented and patented a safety razor that used disposable blades. Safety razors had actually been around since the 1860’s, but up until that point they did not use disposable blades. Therefore they had to be re-sharpened and maintained much like a straight razor.

Gillette’s newly patented safety razor design with disposable blades was a game-changer though. This design basically did for shaving what the printing press did for books and reading: it made them so the common man could use them. Many more men could now shave at home with a razor because it was easier to learn how to use and maintain as it did not have to be honed.

King Camp Gillette’s patent was genius. Without Gillette, safety razors would not have progressed to where they are today. Unfortunately, there were some unintended consequences from the new safety razor design that used disposable blades though. Razor companies (wisely) figured out they could make a lot more money by designing razors that would require consumers to make recurring purchases instead of a one-time sale.

The road to hell is paved with good intentions.

This really opened up an opportunity for razor companies to get creative and increase their margins with slick advertising and inferior products like cartridge razors. Watch the commercials during a football game or pick up a men’s lifestyle magazine, and you are probably going to see an advertisement for a new cartridge razor that always promises the smoothest and closest shave yet.

We never found a cartridge razor that comes close to delivering on the advertising promises though. Why? The sad truth is that the razor industry is dominated by cartridge razors for one reason: they deliver the highest return on investment, not because they are actually the best product.

Men like you are starting to wake-up, call BS on many of these inferior razor products and take it back to where it all started though: straight razors. Why are so many men going back to such an old school product? Every man probably has a slightly different reason, but two of the biggest advantages of a straight razor are:

1. They provide the closest shave. Any man that has got a straight razor shave at the barber can testify to this.
2. Long-term cost savings: if you buy a quality razor and maintain it correctly, it should last for decades!

Of course there are some drawbacks to straight razors like 1) there is a learning curve and 2) it takes most men slightly longer to finish a shave. And to be honest with you, as great as we think straight razors are, not everyone should make the switch to a straight razor. Some men just don’t have the patience or time to use one, and we understand that. (By the way, if that sounds like you, we recommend you check out our beginner’s guide on safety razors.)

But for those of you that think you have what it takes to make the switch to a straight razor, we don’t think you will regret it. No, it’s not going to be easy. And it will probably be pretty frustrating for a month or two. But once you get the hang of it, you will never look back. Alright, let’s get into the basics of straight razors.

What exactly is a straight razor?

Dictionary.com defines a straight razor as “a razor having a stiff blade made of steel that is hinged to a handle into which it folds.” And that pretty much sums it up. Alright, good luck!

We are joking of course. Kind of. At the very basics, that definition is correct. All straight razors are essentially just a single blade that is fastened to a handle. The blade is attached to the end of the handle by pivot pins which holds the blade and handle together but also allows the blade to be be folded inside the handle similar to how pocket knifes are folded into their handle. This feature helps to both protect the edge of the blade as well as the fingers of anyone handling the razor.

All straight razors have this basic design in common, but after that they can vary greatly. They can have different grinds, tip shapes, handle material, blade material, blade width and many other options.

Total Control

If you haven’t already noticed, straight razors are a different breed of razor and share very little in common with either cartridge razors or safety razors. Both cartridge and safety razors are designed with an ergonomic curve to help keep the blade in contact with the skin with minimal effort required on the part of the user. Because of this, cartridge razors, and safety razors to some degree, are pretty easy to just pick up and use. (Although we would argue this is not an advantage with cartridge razors because it causes most men to develop poor shaving habits leading to terrible shaves.)

With straight razors though, the user’s skill determines how close the edge gets to the skin and at what angle and pressure. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage. The advantage is that the user has total control over how the razor performs. The disadvantage is that it is not as forgiving when you make mistakes. There’s no extra level of safety/protection from being careless and making a mistake.

Simple design, but with many variations available

If you want to understand how to shop for the right straight razor, you need to understand how they are designed and what features you should look for. Otherwise, you are just blindly relying on the opinion of others.

Guess what though? Those guys reviews you are relying on bought a straight razor that met all the requirements they needed. Your requirements are probably a little different. Having the knowledge to go out and say “ok, this is what I am looking for” will go a long way in helping you finding the right one.

The fundamental parts all straight razors have in common

Scales or Handle

The handle, also referred to as the scales, of the straight razor are the protective pieces that cover the blade when it is not being used. Straight razor handles are made from a wide-variety of materials.

• Mother-of-pearl
• Bakelite
• Celluloid
• Bone
• Plastic
• Wood
• Horn
• Acrylic
• Ivory
• Tortoise Shell

The scales material really is a matter of personal preference as it really has no impact on the actual quality of shave. That said, we do think certain materials are better for grip. Others look cooler. Others are easier to maintain. And some do all three great. For your first purchase, just make sure he handle is made from something you feel comfortable handling and maintaining. Don’t get too creative on your first purchase.

Tang

The tang is the curved metal part the extends past the pivot. The purpose of the tang is to safely help raise the blade away from the handle when you are ready to shave. Many men also use the tang while they shave by simply resting one or two fingers on it to help stabilize the razor.

Shank

The shank is the narrow support piece that is between the tang and the main blade. The shank is sometimes decorated with a logo or design and also can have some indentations or texture added to assist with grip.

Shoulder and Heel

The shoulder is the small part of the curved part of the main blade that is perpendicular to the shank while the heel is the actual point where the should and cutting edge merge.

Stabiliser

Not all straight razors have a stabiliser, but they can be present as a single or double stabiliser. Stabilisers are just a strip of metal that runs parallel to the shank and “stabilizes” the blade to the shank.

Spine or back

The spine, sometimes referred to the back, is simply the arched top of the blade that is not sharpened or used for cutting. This is the part of the blade that you can safely handle without getting cut.

Cutting Edge

The sharp side of the blade that is opposite of the spine and is used for cutting is referred to as the cutting edge.

Point/Head/Nose

The point, also referred to as the head or nose, is at the end of the blade at the opposite end of the tang.

The Blade

Blade Material

Straight razor blades can be made from stainless steel or a high-carbon steel. Stainless steel is more resistant to rust but can be more difficult to sharpen. High-carbon steel on the other hand is more prone to rusting if you don’t care for it properly, but most users think it is easier to hone.

Blade Finishes

The blade’s finish is applied after the blade has been grinded. There are two types of finish: mirror and satin.

• Mirror: The mirror finish is the finest finish for straight razors. The finish is very shiny and the blade resembles a mirror. Mirror finish blades are typically more expensive and they are the only type of finish that can be used if gold leafing is going to be a part of the blades decoration.
• Satin: The other type of finish is a satin finish. Satin finishes take significantly less time and resources to finish which makes them less expensive.

Sometimes, straight razors are designed to combine both finishes to make the blade more affordable but still have an awesome design element too. How do razor companies do this? They finish the front of the blade with a mirror finish but then finish the back of the blade with a satin finish.

In a similar fashion, metal plating can also be done to make the blade look like a mirror finish when in reality it is just a nickel or silver plate on top of the blade. We recommend avoiding blades with metal plating as eventually the plating will erode and the metal underneath is usually inferior quality.

Blade decoration

Some straight razors have a great deal of decoration on them while others are simple and have no decoration at all. Many high-quality blades are decorated with a logo or name by engraving or gold leafing. Cheaper blades are usually engraved with some type of acid engraving process. The blade decoration should have no impact on the quality or performance of the blade, it is only there for aesthetics.

Point types

Straight razors are available with several different point type options. The point is a big aesthetic feature, but it’s important that you buy one with a point that you feel confident using. The sharper point types will typically help you get reach the tight spaces like under your nose and behind the ears but it is also much easier to cut yourself with a sharper point type.

• Round point: The round point is a curved edge without a sharp point. It is the point type that is most often recommended for beginners. Why? Because this point is much less likely to catch you, especially in those tight quarters like around your nose and behind your ear. We recommend you learn the basics with a round point and then progress to something more advanced.
• Square or spike point: The square point is more aggressive and is essentially a flat edge. The square point isn’t overly difficult to learn how to use so you shouldn’t be intimidated by it, but it’s just much easier to cut yourself when you are still learning how to handle a straight razor. Square points are great for precisely edging your sideburns and mustaches though if that is important to you.
• French point: The French point is kind of a blend of the round point and square point because it has a quarter circle shape to it. It has a sharp angle and ends with a sharp point, but it doesn’t have the straight line profile of the square point. We really like the French point because it still provides some of the safety of a round point but also has a sharp enough point to where you can still reach the more difficult spots like under the nose.
• Barber’s notch: The barber’s notch has a small concave arch cutout in the tip. There’s really no reason to look for a straight razor with a barber’s notch because it is intended to be used by a barber!
• Spanish point: The Spanish point is somewhat similar to the barber’s notch as it flares out to the front. The Spanish point is pretty popular among modern makers.
• Irish point: The Irish point is lesser known but it is similar to round point but is then squared off at the end.

Each point type has benefits and drawbacks, but for advanced shavers the point is primarily for aesthetics as it can really add some flare and style. All that said, we definitely recommend beginners start off with some type of a round point because they are a little easier to maneuver around the jaw, nose and behind the ears without cutting yourself.

Grinding method

When people refer to the grinding method of the blade, they are referring to the cross section shape of the blade. The grind of the blade is one of the biggest factors on how “easy” and forgiving of a shave the blade will provide. There are two main categories of grinds: hollow grind and flat grind. There are several different types of hollow and flat grinds though. Each grind has advantages and drawbacks, it really just depends on how aggressive of a shave you are looking for.

• Hollow grind: There are several different hollow grinds, but they all have a concave shape to their cross section. The sides of the blade are essentially scooped or hollowed out and they are very thin at the edge of the blade. We, along with most other straight razor gurus, recommend some type of hollow grind for beginners. They are easier to maneuver and just more comfortable to shave with. Another benefit of hollow grinds is that they are easier to strop and sharpen. A few of the most common degrees of hollow grinds are ¾ hollow, ½ hollow, ¼ hollow. The number indicates how close the break is to the spine. A higher number means it is much thinner and closer to the blade’s edge. One word of caution though: if you are looking to buy an antique or used straight razor, make sure the edge of the razor is in good condition. Hollow grinds can rust easier so you need to make sure and dry it after every use and put mineral oil on it if you are storing for a longer period.

• Flat, wedge or straight grind: Need a visual of what a flat or straight grind looks like? Think of it as similar to an axe or triangle shape if you are looking at the blade head on. Flat grind blades are heavier which allows the razor and gravity to do more of the work for you while you shave as you don’t have to exert as much force to shave. However, it is much less forgiving on your face. Additionally, the upkeep is more work as it takes longer and is more difficult to strop and hone.

Width

The width of the blade is measured from the bottom of the blade to the top of the spine. The most common blade thickness is ⅝”. We recommend you shouldn’t go much smaller than a ⅝” blade because it will just take you too long to complete a shave. However, you also probably don’t want to go much bigger because it can get much more difficult having to maneuver that big of a blade in tight spaces.

Some people want to get a bigger blade because they are worried they will go through the blade too quickly if they have to get it sharpened frequently. But trust us, even with regular use, a ⅝” thick blade should last many decades! The sharpening process only removes a miniscule amount of the blade.

Maintenance and upkeep

It is of the utmost importance that you take great care of you straight razor if you want to get a great shave every time you use it. Not only will a dull or improperly maintained blade deliver an inferior shave, but it is paradoxically more dangerous. There are a variety of tools and products we recommend to help maintain a blade to excellent standards, but we will cover those at a later date. For now though, we just want to discuss the two tools needed to keep a straight razor sharpened and straight: a hone and a strop.

Hone

The hone is a grit-surfaced whetstone designed to sharpen the blade edge. In theory, honing sounds simple because all you are doing is smoothing and evening the edge of the blade, but it is a skill that takes time and effort to really master. Improper use of a whetstone can damage a razor blade and make it unsafe to use, so it is very important to learn how to do it the right way.

Here’s our recommendation for beginner straight razor users: use a professional until you can find a fellow straight razor user in your area that can really teach you the ins and outs of how to hone. Watching youtube videos and reading articles online is great to learn the process, but seeing how to hone in person and having someone help walk you through it to catch your mistakes is a huge advantage.

Good news though if you never want to learn how to hone: there are many great companies where you can simply mail in your straight razor and have them hone it and return it in the mail. There’s no excuse for not having this maintenance performed when it is needed. And how often is that? It varies, but for most men it is only 2-4 times per year.

Strop

Honing is done to sharpen the blade, but stropping is the process used to straighten and polish the blade. And unlike the hone which does not have to be used too frequently, the strop should be used every time you shave using a straight razor. Strops are usually made from leather, canvas, denim or a coarse fabric strap. Strops are pretty inexpensive, but we definitely recommend getting a quality one because it can last you the rest of your life if properly maintained.

Stropping is not overly difficult, but it is important that you perform it correctly. Instead of trying to describe to you how it is done, we recommend watching this awesome video made by the team at Art of Manliness.

Still on the fence? Consider a shavette

Are you still on the fence about straight razors? Do they still look a little intimidating and you’re not sure if you want to fork over that much money yet? Well if so, we recommend checking out shavettes. Shavettes have very similar designs to straight razors, except that they use a disposable blade and are usually much cheaper.

Shavettes were designed for use in barbershops to help save barbers time. Since they use disposable blades, they do not need to be honed or stropped. This made it much easier for barbers to just keep replacing the blade between customers instead of having to take the time to constantly strop the razor.

Shavettes give beginners a great opportunity to practice technique with something very similar to a straight razor without having to learn how to strop or make an expensive purchase right out of the gate. You can simply practice shaving technique before graduating to the real thing.

Please do not get confused into thinking shavettes provide as good of shaves as straight razors. They do not.

The Cadillac of Shaving

Straight razors are the Cadillac of shaving, but unfortunately a lot of men are intimidated by them or don’t think they are reasonable to use. Hopefully this article has answered some of the questions you had about straight razors though.

Like we said earlier, not all men should make the switch to a straight razor. Lots of men just don’t have the time or patience to use one.

But if you are willing to put a little time and effort into it, you will be rewarded with amazing shaving experiences that are going to save you a whole lot of money in the long run.

Where to go from here?

Here’s our final recommendation to men that are looking to get into straight razor shaving: buy an affordable but quality straight razor to learn the ropes before you make an expensive purchase. Start with a 5/8″, round point, hollow grind and really learn how to use it. Check out our straight razor reviews and best straight razors for beginners guides for further recommendations.

Thanks for checking out our the first part of our beginners guide on straight razors. In part 2, we will discuss more in-depth how to use a straight razor and how to perfect your technique.