Researching and buying your first safety razor can be a little intimidating. It took us weeks of research and browsing hundreds of articles and reviews online before finally feeling comfortable enough to pull the trigger and actually buy one. We don't want it to be that difficult or cumbersome for you, so we have put together this quick but thorough guide on everything beginners need to know in order to start researching and comparing safety razors.
First of all, we want to congratulate you on taking your first step to becoming a wet shaver! Most of you reading this probably currently use a cartridge or disposable razor and just got to the point where you are so fed up with the inferior shave you have been getting, and the cost associated with it, that you finally said enough is enough.
So we commend you for taking the initiative to start researching what else is out there, and this first step of learning and researching is easily the most overwhelming and difficult part of the switch. We know that there is a lot of information out there, but don't let yourself get overwhelmed!
The purpose of this article is to help you understand the basics of a safety razor, how they can differ, what you should be looking for and how to start researching with the intent to buy. Once you understand how safety razors can differ and what features you need/want, it makes purchasing the right one much easier.
History of the Safety Razor
The term safety razor goes all the way back to Brooklyn in 1880 when the Kampfe brothers filed a patent application. However, it wasn't until 1904 when King Camp Gillette was granted a patent that we really started to see the design of the safety razor that we still see today. So what was so different about Gillette's patent that makes it worth noting?
Well before Gillette's patent, safety razors did not use a disposable blade. Instead, the blade had to be re-sharpened whenever it started to dull and lose it's shape. The owner of the razor would either have to spend time to strop and hone (sharpen and shape) the edges of the blades themselves, or they had to pay a professional to do it.
This made the process of re-sharpening the safety razor either time-intensive or costly. So safety razors didn't really add any extra benefits to help differentiate them from the straight razor. However, Gillette's patent in 1904 was for a safety razor that did use disposable blades. This was a game-changer because it made it much easier to just "replace" the blade once it dulled instead of having to spend the time or money to get it re-sharpened.
We wanted to provide you with some historical context about safety razors for two reasons:
- The very basic safety razor design that Gillette made back in 1904 is still essentially what they look like today. There have been some minor changes and improvements, but not a lot. Isn't that incredible? A shaving tool that was invented over 100 years ago is still one of the best ways to get a shave!
- It's kind of sad that Gillette, the company that invented and helped progress safety razors with disposable blades, no longer has a presence in the safety razor part of the industry. We don't blame them. After all, they are a for-profit company with investors they must answer to, and margins are significantly higher when selling cartridge razors and disposable razors, but it sucks they just abandoned this part of the market. Don't worry though, there are plenty of other great companies that have stepped in to fill their void! Gillette's loss has been other companies gain.
Safety Razor Design Options
Alright, that's enough of a history lesson. Let's get to the information you came for so you can start researching safety razors. The first thing we think is important for beginner wet shavers to understand is the basic design of a safety razor.
There are hundreds of safety razors on the market available for purchase and they certainly have different design aspects (which is always good for consumers to have more options), but you need to understand that there are a few parts that are common for all safety razors. So what design elements do they all share? Well, all safety razors have two fundamental and distinguishable parts: 1) the handle and 2) the head that holds a blade in place and only exposes the edge of the blade.
So the basic design of all safety razors begins with the razor head and the handle. However, one of the ways that safety razors can differ is in regards to how the blade actually gets inserted and safely secured for use. There are 3 different designs based on how the blade gets inserted and safely secured in the razor head.
One-Piece (aka Butterfly)
The one-piece safety razor, often commonly referred to as a butterfly safety razor, has no removable parts as it is simply one piece. This design is called a butterfly safety razor because you twist the handle to open the head, and as the head opens it somewhat resembles a butterfly with its wings open. Once the head is open, a blade is then inserted and fastened into place. The last step is to then twist the handle in the opposite direction to close the head. The butterfly safety razor is then ready for use.
One-piece safety razors are great because they are easy to open and you don't have to worry about parts falling off or losing a piece down the sink. However, they are mechanical devices that have moving parts and it is possible for the mechanical components like the small hinges to break over time. Quality-made butterfly safety razors should last for decades when properly used and cared for, but if you buy a butterfly safety razor, make sure that you are not over-tightening the head and placing unnecessary stress/strain on the hinges.
Two-Piece
The two-piece design is different from the one-piece in that the top of the head actually unscrews from the base of the head and handle. The base of the head and the handle are permanently attached as one piece. In order to insert a blade in the two-piece design, the top of the head is first removed by unscrewing it from the handle/base of the head. A razor blade can then be inserted between the two disassembled parts. The top of the head is then screwed back into base of the head/handle and the safety razor is ready for use.
The two-piece design is great for beginner wet shavers because there is no guesswork on getting the blade inserted and aligned. The downside though is that they can be slightly more difficult to clean. There are a few hard to clean places and there can be some gunk buildup from your shaving cream/soap if you don't clean it regularly. Additionally, like with the butterfly razors, you also need to make sure to not over-tighten the top of the head when you screw it back into the base because it can alter the alignment or damage the threading.
Three-Piece
So can you guess what is different about the three-piece design? Yes, there are three pieces! The three pieces of this safety razor design are 1) top of the head 2) base of the head and 3) the handle. To insert a blade in the three-piece safety razor, you first unscrew the handle from the two parts of the head. You then align and insert the blade between the two head pieces. Lastly, screw the handle back into the head.
Three-piece safety razors are great because 1) they are probably the easiest to keep clean and 2) they have no moving mechanical parts so they are extremely durable if you take good care of them. The biggest drawback though is probably that you will have to handle the blade the most with this design. It shouldn't be too difficult as long as you are paying attention to what you are doing, but you do want to be extra careful when inserting and removing the blade of a three-piece design razor blade.
Butterfly, Two-piece & Three-piece Design Summary
So those are the three designs in regards to how the blade can be inserted and secured. But to be honest with you, we don't think you should focus too much on this aspect. Why? Because you should be focusing on how the safety razor performs once the blade is inserted. Don't worry too much about how the blade gets into the razor.
Open Comb or Closed Comb
There are two categories when it comes to the razor head of safety razors: open comb and closed comb.
What is "Aggressiveness"?
Before we get into open comb versus closed comb though, we want to take a step back and introduce you to what aggressiveness means. Aggressiveness is essentially defined by how the razor performs in the following regards:
- feeling/smoothness: how easily does the razor glide across your face?
- performance/closeness: how close does the razor cut the hair follicle to your skin?
A razor that glides across your face means a less aggressive shave (easier on your face) and a closer shave typically means more aggressive (cuts the hair more aggressive). Why are we talking about this now? Because one of the biggest differences between open comb and closed comb razors is how aggressive they are.
We want you to keep the following in mind though when we talk about aggressiveness: what is considered aggressive for someone else may not be aggressive enough for you. We can certainly tell you what factors typically lead to a more aggressive shave, but you will still have to calibrate our opinion on what is aggressive to how aggressive of a shave you want/need. And unfortunately, you might not be able to get it exactly right without a little trial and error.
Open Comb
The head of the razor of an open comb design is lined with teeth that run underneath the edge of the razor blade. The base of the head of an open comb razor basically looks just like a hair comb. The teeth are not there just for aesthetics though, they are there to help guide the razor and position the hairs "closer" to the blade.
The teeth on the open comb razor help to guide the hair closer to the razor while also allowing more shaving soap/cream to pass through to the razor. In theory, this allows your face to stay well lubricated during the shave while also preventing the razor from getting clogged.
Open comb razors are considered more aggressive than closed comb razors and are used primarily by men that have thick, coarse facial hair.
Closed Comb
The closed comb design is the much more common design purchased and used today. Instead of having teeth that run underneath the edge of the razor, the closed comb razor has a flat edge or "safety bar" that runs underneath the edge of the blade. This design provides more protection for the shaver and ensures a smoother shaving surface for the blade. This design typically helps to reduce the amount nicks and cuts by being a smoother and less aggressive shave when compared to an open comb.
Open Comb versus Closed Comb Summary
Our preference is far and away closed comb safety razors. Open comb razors just don't provide enough of a benefit for the amount of risk that they add. Open comb razors are quite a bit more aggressive but the added benefit of a "closer" shave is negligible we think.
Closed comb safety razors do a great job of getting close to the skin for a great shave, but they also offer an extra layer of protection just in case you make a mistake while shaving. If you have really thick and/or coarse hair, you may want to consider an open comb, but for the majority of men (especially those new to wet shaving) we recommend a closed comb razor.
What's A "Double-Edge" Safety Razor?
Ever heard someone refer to a safety razor as a "double-edge" razor? Well all that means is that when the blade is inserted, both edges of the blade are exposed and you can use both ("double") sides of the razor. The only other type is a single-edge, which means that 1 of the sides is exposed for use. The vast majority of today’s safety razors are double-edge. Why?
Safety razors were originally single-edged and the blade was very thick and very sharp, which resulted in very close but aggressive shaves. Over time though, the design of single-edge razors changed and they started to require the same blades that double-edge safety razors used. Once this happened, single-edge razors no longer offered an advantage over double-edge razors. In fact, they were now at a disadvantage because they offered only 50% of the blade that double-edge razors provided! Because of all of this, single edge safety razors are not very popular in today’s market and are found mostly in the vintage market.
Single-Edge Versus Double-Edge Summary
Single-edge safety razors are not really manufactured or sold anymore. Yes, there are a few, but the vast majority and the most popular in the market are double-edge.
In the past, double-edge blades were not been quite as sharp as single-edge blades, but the benefit from a double-edge was that you had two sides to use. Both single-edge and double-edge safety razors use the same type of double-edge blades today though, so single-edge razors no longer offer any extra benefit. If you find a great single-edge safety razor that fits the rest of your wish list, don't hesitate to buy it! Otherwise though, we recommend trying to find the best double-edge safety razor so you get the added benefit of having two sides of a blade to work with.
Razor Head Options
Alright it's time to talk about fixed versus adjustable. And we aren’t talking interest rates! You have two options when it comes to how the blade is positioned and secured in the razor head: fixed head or adjustable head. It basically boils down to this: do you want complete control over how much of the blade is exposed or do you trust the manufacturer to set the optimal amount of blade exposure?
Fixed
The vast majority of safety razors on the market are fixed blade. All this means is that the amount of the razor blade that is exposed when you shave is predetermined and you cannot adjust it. The razor head is locked into this one setting. Most fixed razor heads are typically between a mild and medium aggressive shave.
Fixed heads are great for beginner (and intermediate, and advanced...) wet shavers because you know the razor head is positioned exactly how it should be. Therefore, if you get a bad shave, you know it's not due to the razor head alignment or blade exposure but it was probably caused by something else like poor technique, inferior blades or an inadequate lather.
Adjustable
Adjustable razor heads allow the user to adjust the blade exposure, or “gap", depending on how aggressive of a shave you are looking for. Gap refers to the space between the edge of the blade and the razor head. You may be thinking to yourself that it would be great to get an adjustable razor head because you have more control and can therefore get the exact amount of aggressiveness you want, but this is much more difficult than you think.
It takes a lot of time, effort, trial and error and regrettable shaves to figure out just how to get an adjustable razor head to be symmetrical and have the proper amount of exposure. But even if you finally do get everything adjusted perfectly for a shave, will you be able to repeat the process every time you have to insert a new blade and adjust the head again?
Fixed Versus Adjustable Razor Head Summary
If you are new to wet shaving, start off with a fixed razor head. Getting the setting right on an adjustable razor head is incredibly difficult and recommended only for seasoned wet shavers. And even then, are you really getting a significantly better shave than you would with a fixed head? Probably not.
When novice wet shavers buy adjustable razor head safety razors, they usually find themselves spending a lot of time tweaking the razor trying to make sure the gap is perfectly even because when it is off, it is impossible to get a good shave. We want you focusing your time and attention on technique and learning how to use a safety razor, not on just getting the razor prepared for use. That should be the easy part.
Handle Length
When comparing the handles of potential safety razors, you will simply want to find one that will feel comfortable in your hand. It's really a matter of personal preference, but it's not always easy to know what your personal preference is until you try one or two razors out.
If you have larger hands and have difficulty handling smaller objects, you will probably want to go with a longer handle. However, this isn't always the case. Sometimes men with large hands actually have better control with shorter handles though.
Still no idea on what you think you would prefer? Try to observe how you handle silverware. Do you like silverware to be longer so you can grip it with more of your hand? Or do you prefer gripping silverware at the top and don't need a long handle?
Unfortunately, handle length preference is a factor that can sometimes be difficult until you try a few safety razors out. Our recommendation for your first safety razor is to stick with something in the middle, not too long and not too short. Once you have some practice and a good idea of what you like, then you can go confidently purchase a long-handle or short-handle option.
Weight
Safety razors are manufactured in a wide variety of weights, but we have found that the best ones are neither too heavy nor too light. First of all, you need to remember that shaving with a safety razor is much different than shaving with your cartridge razor. With a cartridge razor, you are taught to apply pressure when shaving. However, with a safety razor you actually don't want to apply pressure but instead want to let the razor do the work for you.
Therefore, if the weight of the razor is too light, you will probably have to apply pressure and will not get a good shave. However, if the razor is too heavy, it may naturally apply too much pressure without any help from you. That's why you want to buy a safety razor that is the optimal weight. We think this range is somewhere between 2.2 and 4 ounces.
Use a weight range of between 2.2 and 4 ounces when shopping. However, weight distribution is also important so you want to make sure the razor is neither too heavy in the head nor the handle. It should have good balance throughout so that you can apply the right amount of pressure to get a great shave. The good thing though is that we have found that all safety razors we have used in the 2.2 and 4 ounce weight range have good weight distribution.
Handle Material
You have several options of material to choose from when it comes to handles, but the most common material for the handle is a metal or chrome design. Some other popular materials are metal/chrome with a rubber cover, wood or animal horn. There are many great looking safety razors available in a variety of materials, but we want you to focus on the performance of the handle when looking to buy.
There are positives and drawbacks for each type of material handle, but we think you need to keep the following questions in mind when choosing the material.
- Will this handle give me the grip I need?
- Will this handle be easy to clean after each shave?
- Is this material durable? How long will it last?
Price
Alright, let's just get this out of the way. The higher the price, the better the safety razor is.
Wrong! You can find a quality safety razor in any budget. No, you won't be able to buy an animal horn safety razor for under $30. But you absolutely will be able to find one that looks cool and gives you an amazing shave!
For your first safety razor, we actually recommend keeping your budget on the lower end. You may think you know exactly what features you want in a safety razor, but until you actually use one with these features, you won't know for sure.
While we do recommend using a lower budget for your first safety razor, this doesn't mean go out and get the cheapest safety razor available. Trust us, you will be able to find an affordable safety razor that meets the criteria you need to get a great shave. But it just might not be the fanciest razor. Save the fancy one for your next purchase.
Popular Brands
Over the last several years, the safety razor market has seen a sharp increase in the number of companies that are selling the product. Why the increase? Because men like you are showing that there is a growing demand for safety razors!
Many of the new companies in the safety razor market make great, innovative products. However, we want to tell you about several of the companies that are well-established and have more history making great safety razors. That said, don't just go out and buy just any product from these companies. Some of their products are better than others, so make sure you do your research and read reviews on the specific razor before making a purchase.
- Gillette: There's not much to say in regards to Gillette and safety razors these days. The only reason we are mentioning them is because they were the leaders and first-movers when it came to safety razors as we know them today. Unfortunately, they have moved in another direction (cartridge razors). Don't cry for Gillette though, they are doing just fine with the margins they make off of cartridge razors and related products.
- Merkur: Merkur just might be the king of the safety razor market today. Their products are exceptional and they have a wide-variety of offerings. Merkur is a subsidiary of a German company, DOVO, which has been around for over 100 years.
- Muhle: Muhle is another German company that makes excellent safety razors in a wide variety of options. Muhle states that their, "actions are driven by an affinity with nature and a desire for the very highest quality" and it shows. They make high quality safety razors, and although they are not on the cheap end of the price spectrum, they are still affordable.
- Parker Shaving: Parker Shaving manufactures excellent safety razors that are typically more affordable than other options. This doesn't mean they don't make quality products though because they absolutely do. For first time wet shavers, there are many greater options that Parker offers.
- Edwin Jagger: Edwin Jagger is an English shaving company that was founded in 1988 so they are relatively young, but they also make great and affordable razors.
- Feather: Feather is a Japanese-based shaving company that makes a range of shaving products. The price range for their products also has a wide range. They make some high-quality safety razors, but they also have one of the cheapest safety razors available at less than $15! Think about it, you can get a quality safety razor for less than the cost of most cartridge razors!
Don't Skimp on Razor Blades!
In order to get a great shave using a safety razor, you need to find a quality razor that suits your needs. But guess what else you need? You also need quality razor blades! Do not spend all your time researching the perfect safety razor for yourself only to skimp on razor blades and buy cheap inferior blades.
First of all, blades are incredibly cheap, even if you are buying them at the "expensive" end of the spectrum. Blades typically range anywhere from around $0.03/blade at the cheap end to around $0.40/blade at the expensive end. How much have you been spending per cartridge again? Yeah, that's what we thought...
Second of all, it shouldn't be overly difficult to find some quality blades. The three main factors when comparing blades are the sharpness, smoothness and durability. You want to get quality blades for your safety razor, but don't overthink it. We recommend ordering 3 or 4 packs of 10 of different brands that are popular and take them each through a trial run. Test them out, figure out which ones you like the most and then purchase a larger pack.
Welcome to the Wet Shave Club
Alright, if you are still with us, pat yourself on the back because we have covered a lot of information! The good news though is that you should be able to confidently start evaluating safety razors on your own. So go out there and start looking for your first safety razor. You won't regret it.
Like we said, we know that was a lot of information so below is a quick summary and checklist about the main features and factors that you should be comparing and analyzing when shopping for a safety razor. Good luck and please do not hesitate to let us know if you have any questions!
- Cheers
Checklist For Buying A Safety Razor
- Butterfly, two-piece or three-piece: butterfly and two-piece are easiest and safest to replace the blades. Three-piece have less moving parts to might be the most durable. Unless you really like one of these designs, this shouldn't be a significant factor in your buying decision as it's mainly aesthetics.
- Open-comb or closed-comb: beginners should stick to closed-comb. Open-comb are more aggressive but don't provide enough benefit to reward for the added risk and aggressiveness.
- Single-edge or double-edge: most safety razors manufactured today are double-edge. Most single-edge razors use double-edge blades anyway so we recommend staying with double-edge as it gives you two edges to shave with. Single-edge razors don't offer any advantage anymore.
- Fixed versus adjustable razor head: we recommend sticking with a fixed head. Adjustable razor heads are extremely difficult to get the settings correct. If you don't get blade settings to be symmetrical and at the right gap exposure, you run the risk of having causing lots of nicks and cuts during your shave. Most men find fixed razor heads to be just the perfect amount of aggressiveness anyways so there is no need to try to recreate the wheel!
- Handle length: how big/small are your hands? Are you better/more comfortable with handling small tools or do you prefer larger tools you can really get a good grip on?
- Weight: we think a good range is between 2 and 4 ounces. If it is a reputable shave company and the weight falls within this range, you are probably good. Just remember, you don't want it to be too light or too heavy and you want it to have good weight distribution. It needs to be heavy enough to let the razor do the work but light enough to where it doesn't apply an excessive amount of pressure.
- Handle Material: again, this is really all about personal preference. What material do you feel most comfortable gripping? How durable is the material? Will it be easy to keep clean and maintain?
- Price: more expensive does not always equal a better safety razor. Some of the best safety razors available are under $50. Don't feel like you have to plop down a lot of money if you find a more affordable safety razor that meets all of your requirements. Start off with a more affordable entry-level safety razor and upgrade to a nicer safety razor once you hone your skills and start to figure out what features you like and dislike.
- Razor blades: please don't skimp on blades! Quality razor blades can't fix a bad safety razor, but bad razor blades can certainly ruin a great safety razor!
