Improve Your Pre-Shave Routine to Get a Closer Shave With Less Irritation

Benjamin Franklin said that “By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail” and I couldn’t agree more. Like anything in life, it takes preparation to succeed at your task, and shaving is no different. By preparing and paying attention to the details beforehand, you are setting yourself up for success.

Lots of guys focus on the actual technique of shaving and what razor to use but don’t place any emphasis on pre-shave preparation or post-shave treatment. Both are just as important as the actual shave. Maybe even more important.

There’s also a quote from Abraham Lincoln that is relevant to why pre-shave prep is so important “Give me 6 hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first 4 sharpening the axe.” What point was “Honest Abe” trying to make?

That proper preparation will always help you get the job done better than by rushing into it. Abe may have needed a sharp axe to chop down a tree, but what do we need prepared for a great shave? A soft, hydrated and well-lubricated beard.

So today I am going to walk you through everything you need to know about how to get your stubble ready for a shave. First we are going to discuss what all good pre-shave routines should accomplish. Then I am going to give you 3 different pre-shave routines that have worked great for me. Each routine is for a different scenario and your should be able to make small changes to them to fit your features, needs and schedule.

What All Do We Consider To
Be Part Of The "Pre-Shave Preparation"?

Pre-shave preparation includes everything you do to prep your face and neck up to the point where you are ready to make the first stroke with your razor. Here’s a list of the most common things men do to prepare their stubble for a shave:

  • Wash their face in the sink with just water
  • Wash their face in the sink with a face wash
  • Take a shower
  • Gently exfoliate
  • Apply a pre-shave oil
  • Apply a hot towel to the face and neck
  • Pre-lather
  • Shampoo and condition the beard
  • Apply a shaving cream, soaps, gel, oil, etc. (some type of lather)
  • Soak the shaving brush before lathering

There’s one part of the pre-shave routine I am not going to cover in-depth today though: how to apply your shaving soaps, shaving creams, shave oils, etc. That topic is so important and essential that it deserves it’s own discussion. Don’t worry though, I will have a very comprehensive guide regarding how to apply your lather very soon.

What Are You Trying To Accomplish
During Your Pre-Shave Routine?

Here at A Superior Shave, we are all about saving time and money everywhere we can. Unfortunately, good pre-shave prep is going to take a little bit longer and it might cost you a few extra dollars. I think it’s worth it though.

The entire point of spending the time and effort to do an involved pre-shave routine is because you think it’s going to hopefully improve the quality of your shave and/or reduce razor irritation. And to achieve this, there are 3 specific goals you should focus on during your routine before you shave.

  • 1
    Adequately wash and exfoliate your skin: a clean face and neck is essential to getting a quality shave.
  • 2
    Moisturize your beard and skin: a soft and hydrated beard is much easier to shave.
  • 3
    Lubricate your face and neck: a well-lubricated shaving surface protects your skin from irritation and allows for an easier shave

Accomplish all 3 of those goals before you make the first stroke with your razor and you are setting yourself up for a great shave.

Goal #1: Wash & Exfoliate

The first step on the road to a successful shave it to wash and exfoliate your face and neck. Why?

First of all, it may be obvious, but washing and exfoliating takes off all the dirt, grime and dead skin cells that are on your face. You may feel like your face is relatively clean and that you only need to splash some water over it to get it clean, but I promise you there is dirt, grime, oil, dead skin and who knows what other residue on your face that you can’t see or feel. It’s there hiding on a molecular level.

When you’re shaving, the warm water and lather on your face are going to open up your pores. So if you don’t adequately clean your face and neck beforehand, some of that gunk will eventually end up clogging your pores. This can cause 2 problem:

  1. This affects the overall health and cleanliness of your skin, particularly if you are already prone to acne
  2. This prevents you from having a smooth shaving surface and can cause razor irritation

Washing your face before a shave isn’t just a preventative measure though. It also starts the process of softening the beard. A soft beard is much easier to shave than a dry and resistant beard, but it takes time to soften. And washing your stubble will help get the whole process started.

I do want to make one thing clear about how extensively to wash and exfoliate though: not every wet shaver needs a deep facial cleanse just to shave. Some guys have dry skin and over-washing it will just dry it out more. Some guys have extremely oily skin though and need to use a stronger facial scrub and exfoliate. You need to wash your face before a shave, but to what extent is going to vary and you will just have to experiment a little.

You’re also going to have to experiment a little with what soap, scrub or cleansing product works best for you. The most common products used by wet shavers include:

  • Bar soap
  • Facial wash
  • Facial scrub
  • Shampoo
  • Pre-shave cleanser
  • Water

If you want a close shave with less irritation, your first goal is to get your face and neck clean. Hopefully by washing and exfoliating, you will soften your stubble while cleansing away the dirt and dead skin without drying your skin out. Just remember - a clean, warm, and wet beard is much easier to shave than a dry and resistant beard.

3 Options For How to Wash & Exfoliate Before a Shave

Option #1: Wash Your Beard In The Sink

Pros

The most common reason guys wash their face in the sink before a shave is because it’s the most convenient. When you are in a rush to shave but don’t have time to hop in the shower, this might be your best option.

Cons

You can absolutely wash your face in the sink and get it clean enough for a shave, but that doesn't mean it's optimal. The biggest problem with washing your stubble in the sink is that you can do it too quickly. If you're anything like me, when you wash your face in the sink all you do is splash some water on it, quickly rub some soap on it and rinse it off. Your beard needs more water over a longer period to really get softened.

Option #2: Wash Your Beard While Taking A Shower

Pros

Washing your face in the shower is the most efficient way to get your face and neck clean and exfoliated. It might not be as quick as in the sink, but it’s so much easier to ensure you get the entire beard adequately washed, exfoliated and hydrated in the shower. And as I alluded to earlier, the steam from the warm shower throws in the added bonus of softening up the beard even more. It’s impossible to recreate this added bonus in the sink.

Cons

There are a couple of drawbacks to washing your stubble in the shower before a shave, although I think they are minor. Firstly, it adds a little more time to the routine. If you’re running late for work or for an interview (or for a date) and need a quick shave, it’s a pain to have to take a shower when you just need to shave and get out the front door as quickly as possible. Secondly, some wet shavers forget they need to re-hydrate their face again after getting out of the shower. Even if you don't dry off your face with a towel after showering, it's still going to air dry considerably. So you just have to make sure and hydrate it again post-shower, no big deal.

Option #3: Apply A Hot Towel To Your Face & Neck

Pros

Softening the beard is critical for a great shave, and nothing does this better than a hot towel on your face. A hot towel on your face gives you the same benefits as steam from a shower, but on steroids. It does an amazing job of opening up the pores and softening the beard. And for men that have relatively dry skin and can’t use another facial wash because it will just dry their skin out even more, a hot towel is perfect.

Cons

Just applying a hot towel to your face isn’t really washing or exfoliating. Yes, it softens your stubble and opens the pores up amazingly well, but a lot of dirt and grime can be left behind which defeats what you’re trying to accomplish. Applying a hot towel has it’s benefits, but we recommend washing your face with some type of soap or cleanser beforehand.

Goal #2: Moisturize & Hydrate

Your second goal when prepping your beard is to get it moisturized and hydrated. I can’t reiterate enough how important it is to the beard. It's worth repeating: soft, hydrated hair is much easier to cut than dry, brittle hair. A hydrated beard just allows the blade to glide across your skin and cut the hairs instead of tugging at them.

There are lots of different products you can buy to help hydrate and moisturize your beard for a shave, and I will get to those in a minute. But one of the best products for hydrating your beard is already available for use in your bathroom: warm water. After all, it is called wet shaving for a reason.

Warm water does an amazing job of moistening and softening the beard when it is absorbed by the hair. The problem though is that the benefits can be difficult to achieve and are usually short-lived. It takes some experimentation to get the water temperature and timing just right.

But don’t stress about trying to hydrate and moisturize your face with just water. It’s not all that practical and that’s why we recommend most men use additional products specifically created to get moisturize and hydrate. So in order to keep your skin and beard soft and supple and lock in that much needed moisture, you can apply another product. Luckily there are plenty of options available, some of which you probably already have in your bathroom.

4 Options For How to Moisturize
& Hydrate Before a Shave

Option #1: Just Use Water

Pros

Water does an incredible job of helping hydrate your skin and beard, but it’s not easy to get the “settings” right. It’s really important that you get the temperature right when washing your face before a shave. Like I said earlier, hot water will end up leaving your skin dry and parched afterwards, but warm water leaves it hydrated and soft. It takes practice to get this right.

Cons

Water evaporates and can air dry off your skin quickly. For most guys, it’s going to take something more than just water to be able to get their beards moisturized properly.

Option #2: Use Hair Conditioner

Pros

Hair conditioners are simple to use and do a great job of moisturizing your beard hair just as good as they moisturize the hair on your head. When you’re in the shower, simply apply a generous dollop of hair conditioner on your hand and work into your bear with your fingertips. This does a really good job of hydrating and softening the beard. And lots of guys like using hair conditioner because it means there’s one less shaving product they have to go out and buy. Just use what you already have.

Cons

Hair conditioners are great at moisturizing, but can sometimes be difficult to rinse off. Also, they can leave your skin feeling too oily.

Option #3: Use A Pre-Shave Oil/Cream/Moisturizer/Lotion

Pros

I have grouped pre-shave oils, creams, moisturizers and lotions together because they provide many of the same benefits, but each product certainly has its own pros and cons you should research in more detail. One thing they all do superbly though is hydrate and moisturize the beard. There are several more benefits to pre-shave oils/creams/lotions but we’re just covering the moisturizing benefit for now.

Cons

Pre-shave oils/cream/lotions do a really good job, but they come at a cost. And that cost is literally what they cost in money. They aren’t crazy expensive, but it’s still kind of annoying to have to buy another product. They also add a little bit of time to your routine as it’s just one more product you have to apply. Lastly, it takes some time to strike the right balance regarding how much of the product to use so you’re getting the benefits without clogging the safety razor or otherwise affecting the quality of your shave.

Option #4: Use A Hot, Wet Towel

Pros

We’ve already extensively covered how great water is for hydrating your face, and doing so with a hot towel might be the best way to do it. Like we said earlier, the steam from a shower is great at opening up your pores and hydrating the beard but we still think this method wins out on performance. But it takes time...

Cons

It takes time to sit there and leave a hot towel on your face because you probably need to do it for a few minutes to get the full effect. And most of us don’t have that kind of time. And once you do remove the towel, you need to work quickly to lock in the hydration.

Goal #3: Apply a Secondary (aka Backup) Lubrication

Most guys think that the shaving cream or shaving soap they apply right before shaving is enough. It’s not. I call this your primary lubrication. But I think you also need to be using a secondary lubricant as well.

Your primary lather/lubrication is really important, I'm not dismissing that. But using a secondary lubricant as support can really improve the performance of your shaves. There’s a couple of reasons why so many guys are resistant to adding a second lubrication to their routine though.

First, most guys think it’s overkill. If you’re already applying a high-quality lather that is supposed to act as the lubricant, is another pre-shave oil or other lubricant really necessary?

Well it might not be necessary all the time, but I think applying a pre-shave oil before you actually lather is like taking out insurance on your shave. Just in case you don’t get everything lathered up quite as good you should, the secondary lubricant will further help soften the beard and prevent skin irritation.

Secondly, most guys don’t see any value in pre-shave oils because the sub-par shaving cream or gel they are using already claim to offer the same benefits. Lots of the popular shaving creams and shaving gels that you find in drug stores heavily market benefits like aloe for moisturizing or that it hydrates the hair or that is provides “extra” lubricant protection so the razor will just glide across your shaving surface.

The marketing for these products essentially make them seem like a one-stop-shop for all your pre-shave needs. But the problem is the ingredients in them prohibit them from actually delivering on the benefits they advertise.

Like I said earlier, you can probably get a good shave without using a pre-shave oil or some other secondary lubricant if you use a high quality shaving cream or artisan shaving soap. But I saw a couple huge benefits when I started incorporating a pre-shave oil into my routine.

  1. I have seen significantly less skin irritation. The pre-shave oil eliminates a lot of the risk of having my skin irritated even when I screw up and don’t lather good enough or make a bad stroke with the safety razor.
  2. It might seem counter-intuitive, but adding a secondary lubricant has helped me to get a closer shave too. The reason is because it does a great job of helping soften up the beard even more which then allows the blade to glide over the stubble more smoothly.

2 Options To Add More Lubrication to Your Shave

Option #1: Use A Pre-Shave Oil, Creams and Lotions

Pros

Pre-shave oils are the most common way to add more lubrication to your pre-shave, but there are also great pre-shave creams and lotions available on the market too. Pre-shave oils are the most common though because they do a remarkable job at providing just a little insurance lubrication while also softening the beard. Pre-shave oils don’t penetrate into the skin but stay on the surface. Oil and water-based cream gives 2 separate layers of protection because oil and water don’t mix. I recommend finding one that is water-soluble so it won’t clog up the razorhead and won’t leave any oily residue behind. Pre-shave oils are really easy to use: just massage into your face, let it set for about 20 seconds and then rinse off with warm water. All of this will lock in moisture which softens the beard, and lubricates the face which will help reducing nicks, cuts and other general blade irritation.

Cons

There’s really only two drawbacks to adding a secondary lubricant to your pre-shave routine: cost and time. You can find affordable, quality pre-shave oils but no matter how cheap they are, it is still an added cost. And while it doesn’t take a long time to apply a pre-shave oil, it does add yet another step to what some might consider a cumbersome routine. So if you’re not the most patient person, this can be a hassle.

Option #2: Use Your Lather Before You Apply The Final Lather

Wait, what? Yes, I basically mean applying a layer of your shaving cream/soap, then rinsing it off before applying another coat. More on this method later.

Pros

Using a high-quality shaving cream or soap is fundamental to providing lubrication for a quality shave. They are specifically designed to provide lubrication and soften the beard -- specifically the cuticle. Quality shave lubricants should contain some form of alkaline ingredient(s) -- usually something like potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide. Why? Because when these alkaline ingredients are combined with hot water, they do a remarkable job of softening the cuticle. The problem is that it takes time for the ingredients to work though. Therefore, if you start applying the cream or soap with more lead time, they can do a better job of softening the beard. You won’t get 2 distinct lubrication layers with this method, but it is very effective if you don’t feel like spending the money on another shaving product.

Cons

The biggest disadvantage to this is that it takes some time to apply. You have to go through the entire process of applying your lather, rinsing it off, and then applying it all over again. Also, you’re going to go through your shaving soap or cream much more quickly as you are essentially using twice as much for every shave. And lastly, you have to do this with your quality lather, you can’t think rubbing some cheap aerosol shaving gel on your face, rinsing it off and then re-applying is going to help. It won’t.

Three Pre-Shave Routines For Every Scenario

So now you should have a pretty good overview of what you need to accomplish in a pre-shave routine and what methods are available. But now we need to figure out how to put all those pieces of the puzzle together because more than likely, it’s going to take a few steps to accomplish all 3 goals of washing, hydrating and lubricating.

That’s why I have put together the 3 following shave routines for you to use as a template. Each pre-shave routine is specially designed to accommodate a different situation.

My advice would be to start with one of the pre-shave routines below and then tweak it to accommodate your features and schedule.

The “I’m Late For Work But Still Need to Shave” Routine (less than 10 minutes)

This routine is designed to be the quickest, but we still make sure you’re doing everything you can to prep your stubble for a superior shave.

  • 1
    Wash your face with warm water and your facial wash. This can be a facial cleanser, scrub, bar soap or whatever works best for your skin. It just needs to get the skin and beard nice and clean. Remember to only use warm water -- hot water will dry out your skin, but warm water will soften and hydrate.
  • 2
    Rinse off your face and continue hydrating for about 30 seconds. As you’re doing this, begin soaking your shaving brush in warm water in the sink. This will help soften up the bristles on the brush.
  • 3
    Apply your pre-shave oil -- quality pre-shave oil is essential if you’re going for a quick shave with little prep. Since you’re skipping the shower, your beard isn’t going to be as soft or hydrated. So it’s really important that you make up for this by adding a little extra lubrication. This extra insurance is well worth it to help you avoid (or at least reduce) any potential skin irritation.
  • 4
    Alright this next step in the routine is going to sound a little random, but just stick with us: brush your teeth. Even though you’re not taking a shower to soften and hydrate the beard, you still need a little time for your beard to soak up the water and pre-shave oil. Brushing your teeth allows for some time for the water and pre-shave oil to really go to work and penetrate your stubble, but you’re also multitasking to save a little time since you’re in a rush.
  • 5
    Rinse off the excess pre-shave oil with warm water. You’re not trying to get it all off, just the excess. Don’t try to rub it off, just lightly rinse it off.
  • 6
    Alright, now  you’re shaving brush should be nice and soft and ready to apply your lather. Grab your lather and apply it.
  • 7
    Shave.

The Daily Pre-Shave Routine (less than 15 minutes)

Next up we have the daily pre-shave routine which I think does a great job of balancing prep performance and efficiency. You should be able to get all of this prep work done in less than 15 minutes, from start to finish.

  • 1
    Hop in the shower and do your normal routine. Make sure the water is nice and warm, not hot. Some guys like taking a cold shower in the morning to shock their body into waking up, but this isn’t going to help prep your beard for a shave. It’s fine to take a cold shower for an after workout recovery or to wake yourself up, but a nice warm shower is the only thing that’s going to hydrate and soften your beard.
  • 2
    While you’re in the shower, make sure and wash your face with your preferred facial wash. It doesn’t have to be some fancy pre-shave facial wash, but you may need to try out a variety of washes and/or shampoos to see what best reacts with your beard.
  • 3
    Apply some hair conditioner to your stubble. Don’t overdo it, but apply it like a lotion. Hair conditioner will help hydrate your beard and soften up the hair. If you’re going to use a shampoo in step 2 anyway, we recommend using a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner. Make sure and completely rinse off the conditioner after applying it because you don’t want it clogging up your blade when shaving.
  • 4
    When you hop out of the shower, make sure you don’t towel dry your face. You don’t want to lose any of the hydration.
  • 5
    Start hydrating your beard again by rinsing your face off in the sink with some warm water. While you’re doing this, soak your shaving brush in the warm water to soften the bristles.
  • 6
    Apply your pre-shave oil, or whatever secondary lubricant you have decided to use. Your beard should be soft and moisturized from the shower, but a pre-shave oil adds just 1 more level or security against skin irritation.
  • 7
    Rinse off the excess pre-shave oil.
  • 8
    Apply your shaving cream or shaving soap using your shaving brush.
  • 9
    Shave.

The “Tonight’s a Special Night” Pre-shave Routine (15 to 20 minutes)

There are some days or nights where you just want to really take your shave to the next level and get an extra smooth shave. And that’s what this pre-shave routine is all about. It is the deluxe. For most of us, it’s not too practical to do on a daily basis. But when there’s a special occasion in your life and you want to pamper yourself and get a barber-quality shave without having to actually go to the barber, this is a great attempt at recreating it.

FYI -- the first 7 steps are identical to the routine we just covered, so if you need more information regarding steps 1 through 7, see above.

  • 1
    Hop in the shower and do your normal routine. Remember -- warm water, not hot water.
  • 2
    Wash your face in the shower.
  • 3
    Apply some hair conditioner to your beard.
  • 4
    Do NOT towel dry your face. Let the water keep hydrating your stubble.
  • 5
    Rinse your face off in the sink with warm water. Meanwhile, soak your shaving brush in warm water to soften the bristles.
  • 6
    Apply your pre-shave oil.
  • 7
    Rinse off the excess pre-shave oil.
  • 8
    Alright, now is where we are going to start differentiating from the daily routine. Take your shaving brush that has been soaking in warm water and get it lathered up.
  • 9
    Lather your face and neck. Get good coverage and don’t miss any spots, but don’t worry about getting being perfect. Don’t spend more than about 45 seconds applying the lather.
  • 10
    Now that you’ve got your beard lathered up, grab a small to medium sized towel about the size of a hand towel. Get it nice and wet by running hot water over it in the sink. Once it’s hot and soaking wet, wring out most of the water. You want it to stay moist but not dripping wet.
  • 11
    Apply the towel to your beard. It might be easiest to sit down and lean your head back like you would see at the barber. Leave it on your face and neck for a good 45 to 60 seconds. We don’t think you will regret this time, it feels amazing and is going to leave your stubble extra soft and refreshed.
  • 12
    Wipe off all the lather you applied to your face.
  • 13
    Reapply your lather making sure you get excellent coverage this time. This round of lather is for your actual shave.
  • 14
    Shave.

The Quality of Your Shave is Determined
Before the Razor Ever Touches Your Face

I can’t reiterate enough how important a good pre-shave routine is to the performance of your shave. Buying and using the best razor for your facial features is really important, but it's a moot point if you don't focus on prepping your beard beforehand. If you’re not cleaning, hydrating and lubricating your stubble before you shave, you're setting yourself up for disappointing results.

I are curious though, what all do you include in your pre-shave routine? Can you tell a difference in the quality of your shave when you skip something in your pre-shave routine? We'd like to hear any comments or suggestions you may have on how we can improve our routine!